Sumac on BBQ — What is it and How to Use it in a Rub?

Culinary sumac is made from the dried, ground fruits of Rhus coriaria, a shrub from the Mediterranean region and Middle East. The spice is generally red to burgundy and tastes tart, fruity and slightly astringent.

• Color: red to burgundy; color and grind vary between products.
• Flavor: fruity and tart, with an earthier character than lemon juice.
• Heat: pure sumac has no chili-like heat.
• Uses: in a rub, dressing, za'atar or as a finishing seasoning.

Buy sumac sold as food. Check the label: some products contain added salt or other ingredients. Do not use foraged or decorative fruits if you are unsure of their species.

Sumac is used in various Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines, including with grilled meat, onions and salads. It is also a common ingredient in za'atar, a spice blend whose composition and proportions vary by region and maker.

Use sumac to taste in your own spice blend. Recipes and preferences differ between regions and cooks; it is one of the possible flavor accents in these cuisines.

Sumac adds a tart flavor accent without the volume of liquid in lemon juice. The two are not interchangeable one for one. Water from lemon juice can evaporate during cooking, but this does not automatically remove all its acidity. Sumac also changes during cooking; the result and color depend on dosing, moisture and heat.

A small accent can make a fatty or rich dish taste fresher. Sumac does not remove fat or guarantee a particular bark color. To assess its aroma after cooking, first sprinkle a little over one test bite.

• Cumin: an earthy contrast to the fruity tartness.
• Coriander seeds: a fresh, citrus-like flavor alongside the tart accent.
• Black pepper: peppery heat as a counterpoint.
• Garlic powder: a savory background.
• Thyme and oregano: herbal accents alongside the fruity note.
• Sesame: a nutty accent, also familiar from many za'atar blends. Remember that sesame is an allergen.

• Lamb: try a small accent on grilled lamb chops or lamb shoulder.
• Chicken: combine with cumin, for example, before or after cooking.
• Fish: test a little with salmon or mackerel and balance it with the other seasonings.
• Vegetables: try sumac on grilled cauliflower, eggplant or sweet potato.

→ Lamb on the BBQ: pulled lamb, lamb shoulder and more

Start with a small pinch in a separate test portion and assess the result after cooking. Adjust the amount to the product's acidity and salt content, the dish and your preferences. A fixed ratio does not work for every blend.

With salted sumac, first check how much additional salt you use. As a finish, sprinkle some sumac over a small portion after grilling and then adjust to taste. Taste with clean utensils and keep your dry stock separate from raw meat and used equipment.